Classic Trench Coat

I made a proper trench coat! Years ago I have tried making my first trench. While I liked it – I had made it out of pretty soft cotton twill, got too greedy making it more fitted, and the whole thing just really didnt work together after our initial honey period. (Do you have a honeymoon period with your handmade garment? I surely do!)

 

Anyways, I felt a need for a coat that is not too heavy and fussy – something made from cotton. I wanted one thats fitted on the shoulder so it doesnt overwhelm my frame, but loose around the bodice so it has a classic… “clinched” look. I also looked over Burberry’s pictures to see what details I would like to put in for my trench coat – and loved the way they top stitch the neck band, brassy closure on collar, topstitch and D-rings on their belt. I decided to re-made that the trench with almost 7 years of added sewing experience.
After many weeks of sourcing the right fabric, and then many many more weeks (6-8 weeks to be exact, started beginning of March) of sewing, and dealing with some sewing machine issues, the coat is finally done!!
First, I am proud to present the list of materials (because they took a while to find):
1. shell fabric – 100% cotton jacketing twill from fashionfabricclub, 4 yards, $22 (sold out, but similar weights here)
2. Lining fabric – 100% cotton sateen from fashionfabricclub, ย 2 yards, $5
3. buffalo horn buttons from etsy, bigger & smaller – $17
4. hook and eye for collar closure, D-rings for belt details, leather wrapped buckles for belt and cuff – $30
5. grommet for holes on belt – $15 ย (end up not using them for now… might add later)
6. heavy duty threads for all those top stitching- around 3 or 4 spools – $5
I am quite proud of being able to find all that I wanted to add to the coat, but am myself a little taken back by how much they all are together (almost $100 and trust me, i had gone with cheaper options wherever i could)! I had wondered if it would be cheaper to buy a coat from fast fashion stores with similar details – and just strip its hardware ๐Ÿ˜› Granted, I have some extra hardware left, but i dont think I will be attempting another trench for another few years! (Though I do have SO MANY IDEAS).
The pattern I used is from burda magazine, march 2009 – it has a whole section of trench coats in there. I added the back “wings” and added lining.
Those buttons were a bit of a pain to sew on – they kept popping off with my first round of tying knots. the last step was to cut open the button holes and that was nerve racking. I am considering handsewing button holes in the future.
This coat is 100% cotton – lining and shell both. This satin cotton from fashionfabricmart is just amazing – smooth, thin, comfortable and strong. I love this shade of gentle pink. Of course, I have to put my logo and handle on this coat!
Just the collar took about 2-3 sessions of sewing to complete. I wanted to embroider the logo onto the back of the collar (inspired by Burberry putting their signature fabric in the undercollar). All the rows of topstitching on the stand took quite a lot of effort as well, but I love how it makes the collar feel so beefy. I also inserted metal closure for the collar, even though I would never use it. Just because ๐Ÿ™‚
The belt was top stitched a few times to give it that beefy look, and also added D-rings for the classic trench coat details. (though i believe they wereย meant for grenades…) My strongest sewing machine (bought a new one!) couldnt even handle the leather+belt, thus there ย were quite a few skipped stitches.
Leather buckle for both belts and sleeve belt (is this the right term?)
ย the front has flaps, and ย I wear it open most of the time:
Side view:
I will end with my favorite picture of the back, I look SO COOL.

 

30 thoughts on “Classic Trench Coat

  1. That looks so good! It’s a beautiful coat and I LOVE the colour of the lining. I can’t say I’ve ever bought something at a thrift store for the notions, but I definitely rip the buttons off of worn-out clothes if they’re too ratty to give away.

    1. Thank you! I love the color too – seems to go witht he shell very well ๐Ÿ™‚ and me too – I have ripped off quite a lot of buttons, sometimes its quite a debate whether i should donate the clothing of savage the buttons!

  2. Wow! Just wow! Great job! I can’t even imagine finding the time and dedication for all those little details…but they *make* the jacket.

    P.S. What sewing machine did you buy? I have to live vicariously through other people’s machine buying, since I’ve yet to be able to afford to do it myself.

    1. ๐Ÿ˜€ yes, the details took a LOT of time! I really appreciate those high-priced apparel after this project.

      I bought a Janome HD3000, I should do a post on it! ๐Ÿ™‚ it is a very basic machine but quite nice.

      1. I don’t know, basic seems fine to me. The only thing I wish is that even the basic machines would have all the buttonholes–I hate buying a machine with 1,000 decorative stitches I’ll never use just to get a keyhole buttonhole.

        1. omg, I FEEL YOU. thats is exactly how I feel about this machine. It has a basic button hole but its just, meh! I want the keyhole version, which I did have with my brother. but I dont want to spend a lot more just to get the one with keyhole!

  3. Wauw! you made a gorgeous trench! years ago I started on a toile but it was a Marfy pattern, witch comes without any information so I never got to the end of it. Your trench makes me want to try it again!

  4. Lovely. Im Lucky enough to have scored a vintage trench a few years back that I love but making one is define they on the bucket list. Did you teat the fabric at all to make it water resistant

    1. i did not. It doesnt rain a whole lot here in california… and the fabric right now is a brushed twill – I didnt want to chance ruining it ๐Ÿ™‚

  5. wow. that is an absolutely gorgeous coat. looks like a LOT of work though! of course, you did learn a lot by doing it, i bet.

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