First of all, let me just say this is probably the last and only black coat I will be making as long as we still have a cat with white fur in the house. It is almost impossible to get all the cat hair out for the photo shoot!
When I was in boston freezing my legs off earlier this year, I started craving for some ankle length coats. Ive always made hip length coats – they are easier to wear for petites. However, now that I am fairly confident with fitting my body, I wanted to try a longer length coat on myself – a fun sewing/fashion challenge!
I had been stash busting my wool coating and the last one left is this twill wool coating that I am not super excited about. It is your basic wool coating, and not super tightly woven like the ones I am used to. However, that means it drapes well, and fantastic for this coat Ive been saving in my Pinterest.
(My attempt to copy the inspiration picture from Wendy- I probably need a tighter white dress and skinnier legs heeheehee)
I again used my TNT pattern Talea coat from burdastyle, made my same alteration to change front to a single piece with a dart (instead of two piece each side), lengthened it, and drafted a notched collar. I originally planned to do a kick pleat vent, but totally forgot to cut the extra fabric for it while cutting. I definitely had no extra fabric left to cut another one, so I had to go with a split vent. I also debated whether to flare the coat as the original inspiration, but decided against it because flared coat tend to not flatter my figure for a day-to-day wear (e.g. not with a 50s dress), and also, I didnt have enough fabric (yes yes i thought in that order). I am quite proud of my collar drafting hack – as it turned out beautifully and was easy to sew.
I chose to do a clean welt pocket, it is lined with black satin, and the front piece is reinforced with interface so that I can actually put my iPhone inside.
A single black metal hook as closure… I plan to wear this coat open most of the time.
One of my favorite parts – the lining. The reason I liked the original inspiration is the white and black lining, so of course I need to make this coat accordingly. I found a 50% rayon white shirting on fashionfabricclub – it worked very well for lining and is comfortable. But its not slippery enough for the sleeves so those are made with 100% rayon satin from fashionfabricclub. (If i remember right the wool coating is from there too… can you tell I am a fan of fashionfabricclub?I actually bought 10 yards of those amazing black rayon satin – I love them for coat lining!)
I didnt think I would have finished this coat before end of the year, so I timestamped it 2018… oh wells! The OCD in me wanted to push back the completion date… but we can just say, winter 2018?
I refrained myself from my usual top-stitching and ironed the seams flat instead to allow the coat to drape better. It took a lot of self-restraining because I know the seams are weaker this way. But it makes a lot of sense for this coat to not have the top stitching. But I am debating whether to do a round of top stitching around the edges (collars, front lines, bottoms). I always need to make the lining baggier , and when the coat falls naturally the lining piece in the front folds out a little, which drives me crazy. any opinions?
The coat fit very well, its very clean and very basic – quite a departure from my usual detailed/designed coats, but I am enjoying the very different lines and all the different types of outfits it is allowing me!
Lastly – I am ringing in the new year nursing a food baby on the couch… I hope you are all having a fun celebration, whether its a quiet one or a robust one. Thank you all for your readership for the past year, happy 2018 everyone!
JuebeJue 
Happy New Year!!
You look like you belong in The Matrix!
Women in black!! 🙂
wow that is fabulous – perfection. And collar you drafted yourself – fantastic. Happy New Year!
Thank you for your kind words! Especially encouraging coming from a sewing guru like yourself! 🙂
gorgeous. I dont have a suggestion for the lining peeping out, but I would try some small handstitches from the inside to see if you can persuade it to sit in, then steam press the coat well and leave on a mannequin overnight. ( the overnight ‘rest’ is a tip from anne ladbury so the wool can relax into its new shap) really great coat. I hope to try a below knee coat next winter as they look so cosy
Ooh that’s a great suggestion – i can keep the clean lines with no top stitching. This calls for a night of handstitching!
I’m not sure I’m picturing the lining issue right-it sounds like the excess fabric is showing in a vertical line along the front edge. If that’s right, I think tacking it to the seam allowances along the side seams might help prevent it from shifting forward. Hope that helps!
Gorgeous! Your logo on the inside makes it look like a designer piece, and your attention to detail will no doubt pay off when it’s still looking great and wearing wonderfully for years to come. Happy New Year!
Thank you very much 🙂 happy new year!
I dont think I have ever wanted a long black coat more than just now! Wow! The double wel pockets and the inside is just amazing. I am so inspired – thank you for sharing!
:D:D:D thank you for visiting!
I just saw your blog for the first time today. So glad someone is still sewing. I love long black coats, but feel like even petite sized long coats overwhelm my 4 feet 9 inch body. Having said that, the first coat I ever made was a long black coat. It didn’t overwhelm me because I made it to fit my small frame. That was in the late 1960’s when I was just 20 years old and maxi coats were in style. It was ankle length and kept me very warm in the Northeast winters. It also had welt pockets. In my opinion, welt pockets and bound buttonholes add a little extra to a garment. I used to enjoy making most of my clothes and altering patterns to change the styles. I always wished I had inherited my grandmother’s special talent. My mother or I would show her a picture of a piece of clothing we liked. My grandmother would cut a pattern for it out of newspaper to fit us perfectly. As I grew older I stopped making my clothes due to work, family and a period of years when pattern sizes weren’t standard even within the same company. Your blog makes me want to sew again. I can’t wait to read the rest of your posts.
Aww thank you Patty!! I love stories like this, sewing used to play a huge role in families and maybe it will in some these days too! Did you have any pictures of yourself in the fitted maxi coat? Would love to see it! 🙂